The wonderland of Kasane

Yes, a testimony of a first-time visitor to Kasane two weeks ago. Everything wowed me from the beautiful landscape, the swift current of the waters of the two rivers (Zambezi and Chobe), the rich and diverse fauna and flora and the sheer display of power by the mighty Kazungula pontoon.   Both as a village and a tourist destination, Kasane is in a league of its own.

The one thing that sets Kasane apart from the rest of the villages in Botswana is its unique geographical location.

The village sits at the confluence of the Zambezi and Chobe rivers and it has the rare distinction of bordering three countries, namely Namibia, Zimbabwe and Zambia. The village is not only a meeting of the two rivers but it has equally become a melting pot of diverse cultures. The connection between the Zambezi and Chobe rivers seems to symbolise the spirit of brotherhood and fraternity existing between the four SADC states.
Although contact of peoples from these countries dates to time immemorial, it has in recent times become more pronounced owing to the dictates of our times. The obvious improvements in the field of technology and transportation have eased both the movement and communication between Kasane and the neighbouring peoples. Today Kasane finds itself sitting next to two fragile and ailing economies of Zimbabwe and Zambia.

An overwhelming number of economic refugees from the two countries frequently visit Kasane in a bid to explore opportunities to improve their lives.

 The village has effectively assumed the role of the 'bread basket' of its neighbours. For example, Livingstone, located 60km away in Zambia, has literally become a 'satellite' of Kasane. While at Kazungula border gate I had the experience of meeting quite a number of Livingtonians who have turned Kasane into their second home. 

Kasane has to cater for the likes of Nana Muyamburi, 26, and Dorothy Sitali, both from Livingstone. 'I am running a small business back home in Zambia which depends on goods procured from Kasane,' said Muyamburi.

Twice a week the two women join the ranks of many other compatriots who have to cross the Zambezi River to purchase merchandise for resale in their country.  They play the role of 'middlemen' ensuring goods from Kasane reach the Zambian market. Asked why they prefer buying in Botswana, Joseph Makina said: 'We cannot afford the skyrocketing prices of goods in Zambia.' The most sought after goods are beer brands such as Ohlssons and Autumn Harvest, and flour and cooking oil.

The next time you go to Kasane and find empty shelves in beer halls thank the Zambians. These are bought in bulk for resale back home. Makina said his business, small though it may be, is lucrative thanks to affordable prices of goods in Kasane. 

The paradox is that Kasane residents see it differently. Residents not only complain of the escalating prices of goods but also attribute it to foreigners who flood the local shops.

The most thrilling and equally scary experience was a joy ride on the pontoon. What an amazing and robust mode of transport. Seeing it ferrying heavy trucks, cars and people in one single trip, defying the swift currents of the mighty Chobe River clearly demonstrated its power.  Surely the pontoon is a tourist attraction in its own right. 

  A mere visit to the mall gives more than one has bargained for. Shopping goes hand in hand with game viewing.

Bo mathinthinyane (warthogs) have the cheek to stroll in the mall as they please. Not to mention the elephants that roam, with arrogance and pomposity, the length and breadth of the village. 

Human beings literally live side by side with animals in Kasane.
Talk of harmony between animals and humans. It felt like going back to the early days of creation where animals are believed to have lived harmoniously with Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden.

In Kasane a walk in the mall is as good as a walk in the park. A visit to the Chobe National Park unlocked Kasane's most treasured possession - its fauna and flora. 
My dream of seeing live the famous big five was realised as I came face-to-face with hippopotamus, giraffe, lions and buffaloes.  I had seen the rhinoceros before at the Khama Rhino Sanctuary near Nata and these four animals were the missing link. Now I can go out and proclaim to the whole world Botswana's status as the home of the famous big five.

Walking in the park also gave me an opportunity to see for the first time Sedudu Island, the piece of territory that nearly brought war between Botswana and Namibia in the 90s. Now the Botswana flag is flying high on the island, thanks to the settlement with the help of the UN International Court of Justice at The Hague.

 By any standards, Kasane is a land of opportunity. Next time you hear of an agrarian revolution in Botswana it would have probably started in Kasane. The huge farms currently in use and the available virgin land yet to be explored say it all. If the country is looking for food security it should look no further than Kasane.

Despite my tight schedule it would have been unpatriotic of me not to pay a visit to Lesoma Village.

The trip to Lesoma village afforded me an opportunity to pay a visit to the monument of our fallen heroes, who paid the ultimate price in defence of the motherland.

These are the 15 BDF soldiers who died in 1978 at the hands of the bloodthirsty and trigger-happy soldiers of the rebel Rhodesian regime of Ian Smith. May their Souls Rest In Peace. 

This peace would be incomplete without a word or two about the lives of the people of Kasane. Kasane is a village of two contrasting extremes. If you like there is a mixture of both the first and the third worlds.

On the one hand there is a cluster of lodges strategically located on the banks of the Chobe River. Here in lies the beauty of Kasane.

These lodges are frequently patronised by foreign tourists and a handful of locals.
There is ample evidence of good living here. Men and women of means socialise here. Life is characterised by occasional boat cruising on the river, game viewing in the park and the drinking of brandy, wine and other sophisticated alcoholic beverages. 

Security is tight and people sleep soundly under mosquito nets to keep the malaria-carrying mosquito at bay.

Overlooking the river is a luxurious house built and owned by a son of the soil, Louis Nchindo, the former Debswana managing director.  It reminds one of George Orwell's Animal Farm's lines which says 'all animals are equal but some are more equal than others'.

The house itself is a marvel to watch. For lack of a better word I shall call it the 'amphibian house' because it is partly on water and partly on land. The house has become the talk of the town. 

Undoubtedly, it has the potential of being a tourist attraction in its own right.
 A stone's throw away from the life of bliss of the few; there are glaring signs of abject poverty epitomised by squatter settlements like Kgaphamadi.

Life here is tough, says 33-year-old Linda Mazunga.
This is a life characterised by scarcity, loud music, noise and crime. There is heavy drinking of all sorts of traditionally brewed concoctions and sorghum beer, chibuku.
The existence of makeshift shelters bears testimony to the appalling conditions and suffering the people of Kgaphamadi are subjected to.

Signing off, I would say visiting Kasane was a worthwhile experience.
I will always cherish and treasure the good times I had in Kasane. To my countrymen and women I would say visiting Kasane is a must.