The Okavango Delta, one of Botswana’s most celebrated landmarks, attracts tourists from across the globe, offering rich experiences in wildlife, natural beauty and culture.
But for those living along its banks in villages like Shakawe, Mohembo, Etsha 6, and Etsha 13, the story is different — far removed from the luxurious safaris and thriving tourism industry.
For many, the various government programmes designed to uplift them, seem out of reach, with residents still battling unemployment, poverty, and the unforgiving realities of deep, remote, and rural life. Gaoduelwe Motlhaedi, a 31-year-old from Shakawe, shared his frustrations recently.
“Ga go na ditiro. Re bereka mo mmusong kgotsa mo Ipelegeng,” he says, resigned to the fact that most employment opportunities come through government programmes. Living with epilepsy, Motlhaedi finds himself in a particularly difficult position, as employers hesitate to hire him due to his condition.
“Ke utlwile botlhoko jaana, ga ke na tiro epe e e tsitsitseng,” he continues, adding that without proper employment, he relies heavily on government handouts, no matter how small. The manual labour-based social programme, more commonly known as Ipelegeng, was introduced in 2008 with the goal of providing temporary employment to marginalised communities. It has been a lifeline for people like Motlhaedi, offering some income, but the reality is that it only provides short-term relief.
“Bontsi jwa rona re ema ka lenaneo le, mme ga le kake la re tsosolosa ka metlha,” Motlhaedi bemoans, adding that Ipelegeng is not a sustainable solution for his community. In Etsha 13, some villagers are unimpressed with how Ipelegeng is managed.
“Ba ba dirang mo lenaneong la Ipelegeng ga ba dire tiro ya bone ka tlhoafalo. Ba tsalana le batho ba mo motseng mme ba abela ditsala, ba masika, le ba lelapa ditshono tsa tiro. “Go na le batho ba le 10 ba ba dirileng mo Ipelegeng dikgwedi tse six go ya pele, fa go santse go le batho ba le bantsi ba ba ikopetseng tiro,” revealed one resident.
Beyond Ipelegeng, other government initiatives such as Chema Chema, Temo Letlotlo, and Thuo Letlotlo are intended to help rural areas diversify their economies. However, again, residents say these programmes have not reached them.
“Dikgoro tse di tshwanetseng go etela metse jaaka Etsha 13 go tlhalosa ka mananeo ga di tsene mo motseng. Rona re utlwa fela ka Chema Chema mo radioweng kgotsa mo bathong ba ba tswang metse e mengwe,” said one frustrated resident from Etsha 13. Residents also face challenges related to basic services, with water being a constant struggle. “We don’t have water in Etsha 13 and we are dependent on wells which are also not enough for all of us,” bemoaned one local. The lack of tarred roads also isolates them from other communities.
“There are no tarred roads and most vehicles fail to arrive in our village because of this,” the local added. One of the most disheartening examples of the failure of government programmes to reach these remote areas is the free connection electricity programme. “Batho ba le bane fela ba ile ba rua molemo ka lenaneo la free connection electricity mo Etsha 13, mme ga ba tlhole ba le teng. Go botlhoko gore re utlwa fela ka mananeo a a molemo go tswa ko bathong ba metse e mengwe,” said a resident.
Meanwhile, entrepreneurs like Kegomoditswe Sehenyi are trying to break free from these limitations by tapping into informal trading. Sehenyi buys clothes from Gaborone and sells them in her village, Etsha 13. “When there are more people in the village or visiting, I do make quite a bit of money. I courier my stock from Gaborone and sell it locally,” she said, adding that when business is good, the stock tends to sell out in about two weeks.
However, like others, she struggles with the lack of formal employment in her village.
“Ga go na ditiro mo motseng,” she said.
Residents in this area also face unique challenges posed by the environment. In Etsha 13, elephants frequently descend on the village at night, destroying crops and homes. “If you don’t have a gun, there’s nothing you can do about them,” says Sehenyi, describing the helplessness many feel as they watch their fields and produce destroyed. Wildlife officials are called in to deal with the elephants, but the damage is often already done. In Mohembo, another village bordering the Okavango River, locals also struggle with employment despite the presence of tourist attractions.
“Le fa go na le dikgwebo tsa bohutsana mo kgaolong ya rona, re utlwa botlhoko gore tiro e e nang le mosola ga e feleletsa mo batho ba motseng wa Mohembo. Go tsaya batho ba ba tswang kwa ntle mme rona re sale morago,” said one local.
Worse still, they face severe water shortages, depending entirely on the Okavango River for their daily needs.
“Metsi ga a yo mo motseng wa Mohembo, re dirisa fela metsi a noka,” the resident added.
Whilst initiatives like Ipelegeng provide temporary relief, they do little to address the long-term needs of communities like Shakawe, Etsha 13, and Mohembo. As Botswana continues to grow and develop, the voices of those in the West demand that much more be done to ensure no citizen is left behind. For many, the promises of government programmes remain unfulfilled, leaving them to navigate the harsh realities of rural life on their own terms.
